What to Know About Dermaplaning, the Exfoliation Treatment
Dermaplaning is a short, in-office or spa procedure that’s kind of like getting your face shaved. It’s meant to exfoliate your skin and remove small, fine baby hairs (a.k.a. vellus hairs), so your face glows and feels softer.
“Dermaplaning uses a sharp No. 10 surgical blade [a larger, fatter surgical blade] held at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape the outer layer of the skin which consists of dull dead skin cells,” explains Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology.
At the appointment, a doctor or aesthetician will gently pull your skin tightly and lightly glide the blade in an upward motion using delicate, feathering strokes, explains Alix J. Charles, M.D., a dermatologist based in Hinsdale, IL.
A dermaplaning treatment usually takes 10 to 20 minutes and can be done as a stand-alone option or as a part of a facial.
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
First, your skin will feel seriously smooth and look super even thanks to a solid exfoliation, says Dr. Levin. Still, this treatment isn’t exactly a wonder cure for your skin. While some experts are curious about whether or not dermaplaning could improve how well creams and serums are absorbed into the skin (which should, in turn, boost their benefits), its effect on product absorption isn’t 100% clear, says Dr. Levin.
Furthermore, “claims that dermaplaning can stimulate collage or improve pigmentation have not been proven,” Dr. Levin says.
But if you’re simply looking for a great exfoliating treatment—and want something manual versus chemical (like a face peel)—the procedure is a good alternative that works well for all skin types, says Dr. Charles.
How much does dermaplaning cost and how long do the results last?
The treatment can average anywhere from $40 to about $200 a session, depending on where you live and where you go, according to the dermatologists we talked to. While results certainly aren’t permanent, you can expect them to last anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Are there any dermaplaning side effects?
While it might be taking over Instagram, dermaplaning isn’t necessarily new—it’s been around for decades and is generally safe if it’s done correctly, says Dr. Levin. The person you visit for dermaplaning should use a sterile blade that you see being removed from a sterile pouch to avoid potential skin irritation or infection. If you’re worried about this, you might want to consider a board-certified dermatologist over an aesthetician.
As for those little baby hairs that dermaplaning does away with? Many patients worry that they’ll result in stubble after the procedure. In theory, your facial hairs shouldn’t grow back thicker, says Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a dermatologist in West Islip, New York. But just like with laser hair removal, there can be unexpected cases of hair darkening and perceived thickening—especially around the sideburns and chin area (spots where thinner hairs are more prone to turn into those thick beard-like hairs), she says.
Have areas of hair that you pluck? “Avoid dermaplaning there as this will act as if you are shaving the area,” says Dr. Mariwalla, meaning there’s a chance the hair could grow back thicker.
Who should consider dermaplaning—and are there people who should totally avoid it?
Dermaplaning is safe for virtually everyone. However, you should avoid it if you have a tan, sunburn, active acne, a flaring rosacea breakout, or an inflammatory skin condition such as eczema or psoriasis, says Dr. Levin, as the procedure can worsen these issues. If you have a lot of deep acne scarring, you also want to be careful with dermaplaning since there may be an easier chance of nicking your skin during the treatment, says Dr. Charles.
Lastly, let your dermatologist know if you have a history of cold sores since dermaplaning can re-activate them (anything that irritates the skin can reactivate the virus responsible for cold sores), Dr. Levin says. If you tell them beforehand, your doc can give you an antiviral to prevent outbreaks.
If you’re looking for collagen stimulation procedures, permanent hair removal options, or a long-lasting exfoliation treatment, there are more effective and proven options to consider, such as laser treatments, laser hair removal, and chemical peels (where results can last three to six months), says Dr. Levin.
Otherwise, assuming you’re just looking for a painless way to get super smooth, radiant skin, dermaplaning is worth a shot.
